Chugger FAQ's
Is there an advantage to Stainless Steel over the Polysulfone Pump?
The pumps are the same except for the obvious SS and Plastic materials. As a brewer, we believe the SS Head has 4 main advantages:It will not break easily.It will not cross thread.It is FDA regulated.It is easier to clean and sanitize
What comes into contact with the wort with your stainless steel head?
Ryton/Teflon (Impeller), Teflon (Thrust Washers), Stainless Steel (Front & Rear Casing).
What is the proper pump orientation for my CHUGGER PUMP?
DO NOT RUN THE PUMP DRY! The Chugger Pump is not self-priming. It needs to be mounted below the source of liquid and the pump head needs to be flooded prior to turning the pump on. You can rotate the pump head 90 Degrees. With the outlet pointing to 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00. You can mount the pump horizontally, vertically and upside down. However, if you mount the pump vertically, do not have the motor facing up. Do not mount the pump in an enclosed space. This will prevent proper ventilation and may cause the pump to overheat.
What kind of fittings and accessories should I use with my CHUGGER PUMP?
Rule of thumb would be to not to reduce the inlet to less than the inlet size, full port 1/2" inside diameter camlocks, hose barbs and ball valves are recommended.For the center inlet pump which has a 3/4" inlet, you can use a 3/4" to 1/2" full port female reducer fitting to make connections to standard 1/2" systems. To control flow rates; you can use a ball valve on the outlet side only, do not restrict flow on the inlet side of the pump. DO NOT USE A VOLTAGE REDUCER. This will damage the motor.
Can I convert the pump head to clover fittings?
One of the first things you will notice when you look at the equipment in your favorite brewpub is that it is constructed of stainless steel, not plastic. Next, if you look closer, you will not find any blind threaded connections: clover clamps rule. So, here is how to convert your stainless Chugger to sanitary fittings. First: Get two 1.5 in clover caps, and drill an accurate .75 in hole in the middle. You are going to tap these holes with a 1/2 in pipe tap, so they should be accurate and centered. I have an engine lathe, which makes the job easy. I drill the holes with a carbide hole cutter. If you look up the tap drill size, you will find 45/64, but since they will be welded, the threads only serve to hold the cap in place; the oversize hole makes the job easier. Pic 1 shows the parts ready for assembly. Next, screw the caps onto the pump head so that they are about 1/8 in from the mating face of the cap. This is shown in Pic 2. I simply fuse weld what is essentially the resulting outside corner joint (seems confusing at first, but think about it) using the pulsed tig process to minimize heat input. The result is shown in Pic 3. This completes the construction. You're ready for better beer. If you use threaded connections and don't disassemble them completely after each brew, you will be amazed at the amount of moldy gunk that accumulates over time in the pockets, even if you flush the system well.
Where can I get replacement repair Chugger Pump parts?
You can go back to the vendor you purchased your pump from and they will be able to provide you with replacement parts. You can also purchase Repair Parts, Repair Kits, and Replacement Heads here on our website.